1. Q: How much does a garden pond kit cost?
A: Pond kits generally range from $500 up to $4000 and more. But like anything else, the cost will depend a lot on what kind and what size pond you have in mind.
2. Q: How much electricity does a garden pond use?
A: Depending on the pump, you will spend between $10 and $50 a month (per pump) on additional electricity. Most people hardly notice the monthly increase in their bill.
3. Q: How much maintenance does a garden pond require?
A: Your system will need a 100% clean-out a minimum of once every three years. Depending on your surroundings and the individual characteristics (size, location, etc.) of your pond, maintenance typically requires less than 10 minutes a week.
4. Q: Can I let my pond run all winter long?
A: Yes, many people do in order to witness the beautiful ice sculptures that form in and around the waterfalls. But if you do, you’ll need to keep an eye on the water level. Occasionally ice dams form in the stream, and they will push the water out of your pond. This will cause your water level to drop and it also creates problems for your pump. So if you decide to keep you system running all winter, keep a close eye on the water level and don’t let it get too low.
5. Q: How often does my garden pond need to be cleaned out?
A: We recommend that you do a clean-out once a year, in the spring. This spring clean-out gets your pond up and running on sound footing right out of the gate, and sets the stage for a totally successful pondering season.
6. Q: Does the pond need to be drained frequently?
A: No, the ONLY time a pond should be drained is during a spring clean out. You see, cleaning a pond out destroys most of the beneficial aerobic bacteria that your balanced aquatic ecosystem depends on. And when you do this, you’re effectively going back to square one every time and starting over. So save your cleanouts for once a year in the springtime, and eliminate headaches and unnecessary cost.
7. Q: Are increases in wildlife common when you put in a backyard pond?
A: Yes. Creating an aquatic ecosystem invites wildlife, that is great fun to watch, into your yard. These critters will range from squirrels and birds, to raccoon and even deer. In regard to raccoons, they can swim, but they’re not normally inclined to. And most fish are savvy enough to spot a predator like this on the shore and avoid his reach by diving to the bottom of the pond until he leaves.
8. Q: I’ve heard that ponds and trees don’t mix. Is that true?
A: Trees are an important part of any mature landscape. However, for the pond owner there are advantages and disadvantages that come with nearby trees. A properly located tree provides shade and reduces algae. A tree also gives a new pond a look of maturity. On the other hand, trees shed leaves every year, and a large portion will end up in your pond. If leaves sink to the bottom for long, they’ll decay. Decaying leaves add to the biological load placed on the filtration system, and can upset the pond’s balance. Using a pond net in the fall works nicely.
9. Q: Can too much bacteria hurt my system?
A: While it may hurt you pocketbook, it’s impossible to harm your system by adding too much bacteria. Stick to the directions on the side of the box and you’ll do just fine.
10. Q: Will my garden pond need a UV light?
A: When the ecosystem is balanced, there’s little need for a UV light. On the other hand, if your pond lacks a good filtration system, a solid circulatory system, rocks and gravel all over the bottom, fish, and enough plants, your pond will be imbalanced, and may require you to buy UV lights. Also a new COST EFFECTIVE alternative to UV’s called Magic Mats were recently introduced to the market. Magic Mats are filter pads that are treated with a special coating, and when placed in your skimmer they do everything a UV light does (and more) and this line is allowing some manufacturers and the installers who use their equipment to offer a clear pond guarantee with their pond kits. Magic Mats are not only functional, but extremely cost effective when compared to UV lights.
Friday, February 8, 2008
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
The Top 6 Maintenance FAQs, and Answers to Them
1. Q - How much time should I expect to spend each week maintaining the backyard pond?
A – During the pond season (the summer) you should expect to spend five to ten minutes each week between emptying debris from the skimmer, and topping off the pond (accommodating for natural evaporation). This of course presumes that you’ve covered the bases as far as creating a naturally balanced ecosystem.
2. Q – How about maintenance time in the fall? Does it increase?
A – Definitely. When the leaves a blowing hither and yon, many of them will naturally find their way into your backyard pond. That means you will be emptying the skimmer basket at least once a day (maybe twice) instead of once a week, so your maintenance time will increase in the fall.
3. Q – How about in the spring? Does that change things?
A – the one maintenance event of the year for most pond lovers, is spring clean out. And whether you’re a died in the wool do it yourselfer, or you hire it done, a properly done spring cleanout that includes draining the pond, catching and housing the fish safely, power washing the backyard pond, filling it back up, and allowing the fish to re-acclimatize, it generally takes the better part of four hours. The good news is that it happens only once a year.
4. Q – While we’re at it, what about maintenance in the winter?
A – Unless you’re in a climate that’s warm all year around, you’ll probably be shutting your pond down in the winter. That requires you to put a surface agitating bubbler in the pond in order to keep a hole in the ice, allowing for gasses to be exchanged. You may even want to use a complimentary backyard pond heater in case of a real cold winter. One way or the other, most of your winter maintenance time is spent looking out the window and assuring yourself that your pond hasn’t frozen over, and your fish are still hibernating.
5. Q – Is feeding the fish considered part of backyard pond maintenance?
A - No, it’s not. Since most people get a kick out of feeding the fish, we always consider it a recreation. Fish feeding should take no more than a couple minutes per day, unless you choose to spend more.
6. Q - Since keeping a backyard pond in balance allows Mother Nature to do most of the real maintenance work, what’s required to have a balanced pond?
A – You must have an appropriate amount of fish (1 inch of fish for each square foot of pond surface), aquatic plants (they should cover about 40% of the pond’s surface), and plenty of aerobic bacteria to break down debris and transform it into usable plant nutrition.
A – During the pond season (the summer) you should expect to spend five to ten minutes each week between emptying debris from the skimmer, and topping off the pond (accommodating for natural evaporation). This of course presumes that you’ve covered the bases as far as creating a naturally balanced ecosystem.
2. Q – How about maintenance time in the fall? Does it increase?
A – Definitely. When the leaves a blowing hither and yon, many of them will naturally find their way into your backyard pond. That means you will be emptying the skimmer basket at least once a day (maybe twice) instead of once a week, so your maintenance time will increase in the fall.
3. Q – How about in the spring? Does that change things?
A – the one maintenance event of the year for most pond lovers, is spring clean out. And whether you’re a died in the wool do it yourselfer, or you hire it done, a properly done spring cleanout that includes draining the pond, catching and housing the fish safely, power washing the backyard pond, filling it back up, and allowing the fish to re-acclimatize, it generally takes the better part of four hours. The good news is that it happens only once a year.
4. Q – While we’re at it, what about maintenance in the winter?
A – Unless you’re in a climate that’s warm all year around, you’ll probably be shutting your pond down in the winter. That requires you to put a surface agitating bubbler in the pond in order to keep a hole in the ice, allowing for gasses to be exchanged. You may even want to use a complimentary backyard pond heater in case of a real cold winter. One way or the other, most of your winter maintenance time is spent looking out the window and assuring yourself that your pond hasn’t frozen over, and your fish are still hibernating.
5. Q – Is feeding the fish considered part of backyard pond maintenance?
A - No, it’s not. Since most people get a kick out of feeding the fish, we always consider it a recreation. Fish feeding should take no more than a couple minutes per day, unless you choose to spend more.
6. Q - Since keeping a backyard pond in balance allows Mother Nature to do most of the real maintenance work, what’s required to have a balanced pond?
A – You must have an appropriate amount of fish (1 inch of fish for each square foot of pond surface), aquatic plants (they should cover about 40% of the pond’s surface), and plenty of aerobic bacteria to break down debris and transform it into usable plant nutrition.
Thursday, January 17, 2008
The Top 10 Plant FAQ’s, and Answers to Them
1. Q: Are plants a requirement in my backyard pond?
A: You must have plants if you want to have a naturally balanced ecosystem and a low maintenance pond in which Nature does the upkeep. Without aquatic plants, algae will have a field day on the nutrition in your pond, and you’ll be unable to see beneath the green surface all season long. It won’t smell very good either, so aquatic plants are an absolute must in the eyes of knowledgeable water gardening enthusiasts everywhere.
2. Q: Will my plants survive the winter?
A: Perennials will survive, and the annuals will die, unless you pull them (the annuals) out of the pond, place them in a bucket of water, and store them in a warm place. The perennials, on the other hand, are like the old Timex watch. They just keep on ticking season after season.
3. Q: Why do marginal plants work better than lilies when aiding in pond filtration?
A: Marginals are bare rooted into the pond and therefore they pull their nutrients directly from the water, which in turn competes with algae growth. Lilies have their own soil base, and therefore do not compete directly with the algae.
4. Q: How do plants filter a pond?
A: Plants use up nitrates and phosphates that would otherwise contribute to and feed algae growth. Generally speaking, the more plants the less the maintenance.
5. Q: How many plants should I have in my pond?
A: Forty to sixty percent of your pond should be covered by plants. The majority of these should be marginals and floaters, which will soak up available nutrition and minimize algae problems. Liles add shade and aesthetic value to your pond, but they do not have the filtering power of marginal plants.
6. Q: Where should I purchase aquatic plants?
A: A local nursery generally carries a mix of lilies and marginal plants for you to choose from. With the popularity of water gardening growing exponentially, the odds of finding a good selection of aquatic plants to choose from is getting better every season.
7. Q: Is it practical to grow lotus in a backyard pond?
A: Yes. They are both hardy, and beautiful plants.
8. Q: What role do terrestrial plants play in having a clear backyard pond?
A: They play an indirect role by helping to filter rainwater when it comes running down into your pond. On the other hand, terrestrials play a very direct role in beautifying and naturalizing the area surrounding your pond. This is where all the vibrant colors in the spring and the summer come from.
9. Q: The leaves on my water lilies are too small. What can I do about that?
A: That just requires a little monthly maintenance. Lilies are hungry plants that require lots of fertilizer to grow to their fullest potential. Most varieties will do best with a feeding (fertilizing) about every 30-45 days.
http://www.deepdiscountpondsupply.com/WaterTreatments-tp2-47.html
10. Q: My pond gets too much sun/shade. What should I do?
A: For pond enthusiasts the sun is both friend and foe. The plants that we love to grow and watch bloom, require a certain amount of sun to thrive. However, algae loves the sun too. The trick is to build your pond where it best suits your landscape and viewing requirements, and then adjust your plantings to match the solar pattern. There are many varieties of plants that are shade tolerant and will provide a beautiful pondscape, while maintaining a healthy ecosystem. On the other hand, too much sun can be countered by adding additional plants to create shade.
A: You must have plants if you want to have a naturally balanced ecosystem and a low maintenance pond in which Nature does the upkeep. Without aquatic plants, algae will have a field day on the nutrition in your pond, and you’ll be unable to see beneath the green surface all season long. It won’t smell very good either, so aquatic plants are an absolute must in the eyes of knowledgeable water gardening enthusiasts everywhere.
2. Q: Will my plants survive the winter?
A: Perennials will survive, and the annuals will die, unless you pull them (the annuals) out of the pond, place them in a bucket of water, and store them in a warm place. The perennials, on the other hand, are like the old Timex watch. They just keep on ticking season after season.
3. Q: Why do marginal plants work better than lilies when aiding in pond filtration?
A: Marginals are bare rooted into the pond and therefore they pull their nutrients directly from the water, which in turn competes with algae growth. Lilies have their own soil base, and therefore do not compete directly with the algae.
4. Q: How do plants filter a pond?
A: Plants use up nitrates and phosphates that would otherwise contribute to and feed algae growth. Generally speaking, the more plants the less the maintenance.
5. Q: How many plants should I have in my pond?
A: Forty to sixty percent of your pond should be covered by plants. The majority of these should be marginals and floaters, which will soak up available nutrition and minimize algae problems. Liles add shade and aesthetic value to your pond, but they do not have the filtering power of marginal plants.
6. Q: Where should I purchase aquatic plants?
A: A local nursery generally carries a mix of lilies and marginal plants for you to choose from. With the popularity of water gardening growing exponentially, the odds of finding a good selection of aquatic plants to choose from is getting better every season.
7. Q: Is it practical to grow lotus in a backyard pond?
A: Yes. They are both hardy, and beautiful plants.
8. Q: What role do terrestrial plants play in having a clear backyard pond?
A: They play an indirect role by helping to filter rainwater when it comes running down into your pond. On the other hand, terrestrials play a very direct role in beautifying and naturalizing the area surrounding your pond. This is where all the vibrant colors in the spring and the summer come from.
9. Q: The leaves on my water lilies are too small. What can I do about that?
A: That just requires a little monthly maintenance. Lilies are hungry plants that require lots of fertilizer to grow to their fullest potential. Most varieties will do best with a feeding (fertilizing) about every 30-45 days.
http://www.deepdiscountpondsupply.com/WaterTreatments-tp2-47.html
10. Q: My pond gets too much sun/shade. What should I do?
A: For pond enthusiasts the sun is both friend and foe. The plants that we love to grow and watch bloom, require a certain amount of sun to thrive. However, algae loves the sun too. The trick is to build your pond where it best suits your landscape and viewing requirements, and then adjust your plantings to match the solar pattern. There are many varieties of plants that are shade tolerant and will provide a beautiful pondscape, while maintaining a healthy ecosystem. On the other hand, too much sun can be countered by adding additional plants to create shade.
Wednesday, January 2, 2008
The Top 10 Technical FAQ’s and Answers to Them
1. Q: Will I need to test my water for pH on a daily or weekly basis?
A: No. Most backyard residential ponds will only need to be tested if there has been a long, recurring problem.
2. Q: What do engineers mean when they talk about Total Dynamic Head or TDH?
A: The TDH is the amount of pressure the pump experiences due to the rise and run of the pipe. Pipe diameter can also factor into this equation.
3. Q: How do I determine how much water flow I’ll need for my stream or waterfalls?
A: The rule of thumb is 1500 gallons per hour, per foot of width on a waterfall or stream. And don’t forget, head pressure will reduce some of your pump’s flow rate.
4. Q: Why do professional water garden builders always place the skimmer and the biological filter on opposite ends of the water garden?
A: By placing the skimmer and the biological filter at opposite ends, you create moving, (not stagnant) water, which is part and parcel of a good circulation system that does all kinds of things from discouraging or drowning mosquito larvae, to filtering large debris out in your skimmer basket.
5. Q: What materials work well on top of the liner when laying large boulders?
A: Extra underlayment; carpet padding, and rock pads all work nicely.
6. Q: What is a safe pH range for my pond?
A: A range 7-8.5 is ideal, however, as long as your fish are acclimated to the pond, they can handle higher and lower pH levels with no problem. We recommend steering clear of pH testing altogether in order to avoid causing problems for your pond and your fish.
7. Q: How much water loss is normal due to evaporation?
A: About 2” per week, give or take an inch for harsher climates.
8. Q: What’s a flocculent?
A: A flocculent is a liquid that coagulates or binds together suspended particles in your pond. This is an extremely effective way to tackle a suspended algae problem in your pond. Once coagulated, it flows right into the skimmer and you can dump it out with the rest of the debris.
9. Q: Do I really need the underlayment?
A: Yes, you need to use the underlayment underneath every liner, no matter what the size is. The underlayment allows the earth to release gasses from beneath the liner. Without an underlayment, gasses would get trapped and cause your liner to bubble up.
10. Q. How long should I expect a pump to last?
A: Three to five years is a good range for most pumps. But don’t forget to check the warranty. These normally fall between one year (on the low side) and two years (on the high side). So choose your pump intelligently.
A: No. Most backyard residential ponds will only need to be tested if there has been a long, recurring problem.
2. Q: What do engineers mean when they talk about Total Dynamic Head or TDH?
A: The TDH is the amount of pressure the pump experiences due to the rise and run of the pipe. Pipe diameter can also factor into this equation.
3. Q: How do I determine how much water flow I’ll need for my stream or waterfalls?
A: The rule of thumb is 1500 gallons per hour, per foot of width on a waterfall or stream. And don’t forget, head pressure will reduce some of your pump’s flow rate.
4. Q: Why do professional water garden builders always place the skimmer and the biological filter on opposite ends of the water garden?
A: By placing the skimmer and the biological filter at opposite ends, you create moving, (not stagnant) water, which is part and parcel of a good circulation system that does all kinds of things from discouraging or drowning mosquito larvae, to filtering large debris out in your skimmer basket.
5. Q: What materials work well on top of the liner when laying large boulders?
A: Extra underlayment; carpet padding, and rock pads all work nicely.
6. Q: What is a safe pH range for my pond?
A: A range 7-8.5 is ideal, however, as long as your fish are acclimated to the pond, they can handle higher and lower pH levels with no problem. We recommend steering clear of pH testing altogether in order to avoid causing problems for your pond and your fish.
7. Q: How much water loss is normal due to evaporation?
A: About 2” per week, give or take an inch for harsher climates.
8. Q: What’s a flocculent?
A: A flocculent is a liquid that coagulates or binds together suspended particles in your pond. This is an extremely effective way to tackle a suspended algae problem in your pond. Once coagulated, it flows right into the skimmer and you can dump it out with the rest of the debris.
9. Q: Do I really need the underlayment?
A: Yes, you need to use the underlayment underneath every liner, no matter what the size is. The underlayment allows the earth to release gasses from beneath the liner. Without an underlayment, gasses would get trapped and cause your liner to bubble up.
10. Q. How long should I expect a pump to last?
A: Three to five years is a good range for most pumps. But don’t forget to check the warranty. These normally fall between one year (on the low side) and two years (on the high side). So choose your pump intelligently.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Coffee in the AM by Your Water Garden
How important is that first steaming hot cup of coffee in the morning to you? And by any chance does that coffee go hand in hand with your morning newspaper? I’m talking about the aroma and taste of the coffee, and the smell of that fresh newspaper all coming together in the wee hours, before you start your workday. Sound familiar?
And if by chance you happen to have a beautiful, naturally balanced water garden, with a beautiful fountain sitting out in your backyard, my bet is that, weather permitting, you take that first hot cup of coffee along with your newspaper out by the water garden. You’ll take in a long, deep breath of fresh morning air, watch the graceful koi darting around the garden pond, and relax as the sun gradually inches its way up over the new day’s horizon. Isn’t this how you start your day?
You’re On Vacation
If you do, by any chance do you feel like you’re on vacation? Do feel like you’ve escaped to some exotic Caribbean island in the middle of the ocean? The difference however, is that you can do it every morning instead of two weeks out of the year. After all, you’ve thrown a rope around paradise and pulled her right into your own backyard so that you and your family can enjoy her all year round.
Natural Relaxation and Stress Reduction
And in these fast moving and stress filled times, how important is it to recognize the importance of relaxing, of decompressing, and of being able to control the stress that the workday inevitably brings to your table? The first hour naturally sets the stage for the rest of your day, and if you begin in a state of natural relaxation alongside your garden pond, the odds of stress beating down your door and overwhelming you is reduced dramatically. So here’s to the coffee, here’s to the newspaper, and here’s to the garden pond in your backyard. Enjoy.
And if by chance you happen to have a beautiful, naturally balanced water garden, with a beautiful fountain sitting out in your backyard, my bet is that, weather permitting, you take that first hot cup of coffee along with your newspaper out by the water garden. You’ll take in a long, deep breath of fresh morning air, watch the graceful koi darting around the garden pond, and relax as the sun gradually inches its way up over the new day’s horizon. Isn’t this how you start your day?
You’re On Vacation
If you do, by any chance do you feel like you’re on vacation? Do feel like you’ve escaped to some exotic Caribbean island in the middle of the ocean? The difference however, is that you can do it every morning instead of two weeks out of the year. After all, you’ve thrown a rope around paradise and pulled her right into your own backyard so that you and your family can enjoy her all year round.
Natural Relaxation and Stress Reduction
And in these fast moving and stress filled times, how important is it to recognize the importance of relaxing, of decompressing, and of being able to control the stress that the workday inevitably brings to your table? The first hour naturally sets the stage for the rest of your day, and if you begin in a state of natural relaxation alongside your garden pond, the odds of stress beating down your door and overwhelming you is reduced dramatically. So here’s to the coffee, here’s to the newspaper, and here’s to the garden pond in your backyard. Enjoy.
Thursday, December 6, 2007
The Top 10 Design FAQs and Answers to Them
1. Q: Where should I locate my garden pond?
A: As a general rule, you should locate your pond as close to your viewing area as you can get. Typically, ponds are situated in the yard so you can enjoy the pond from both inside and outside. Right off of your deck or patio is ideal.
2. Q: Where should I avoid locating my garden pond?
A: The last place your pond should go is in the back corner of your lot. It will be much easier to enjoy if you don’t have to walk all the way across your yard to see it, listen to it, and to feed your finely finned friends.
3. Q: Can I excavate deeper than two feet with my garden pond?
A: Yes, but why would you want to? There is very little difference in oxygen levels at 3’ deep. If you go deeper, however, then you’ll need supplemental filtration. Then you’re looking at more cost for liner, underlayment, rocks and labor, etc. If you go deeper, you could also risk being in conflict with local BOCA codes. Conflicts can usually be avoided by sticking with a 24-inch deep pond.
4. Q: What type of rocks can I use in my garden pond?
A: Usually the only rock that has been known to cause problems is limestone. We suggest that you avoid limestone and use a rock that is native (indigenous) or natural to the local environment. Also, if you use rock that you’re familiar with, your building technique will become increasingly efficient.
5. Q: Are rocks and gravel absolutely necessary in my garden pond?
Te be honest there is a whole segment of the water gardening industry (those who show koi) who are absolutely opposed to rocks and gravel in the pond. But for most water garden enthusiasts who are just looking to relax in the midst of Mother Nature, having rocks and gravel duplicates what the fish are used to in their natural environment.
6. Q: Will my pond attract frogs, birds, and dragonflies?
A: If you build it right …they will come. And all three are signs of a healthy and naturally balanced aquatic ecosystem/water garden/garden pond.
7. Q: How high should the waterfall be?
A: You always want to keep your waterfall to scale with the grade. For example, you should probably avoid building a 5’ high waterfall in a flat backyard because, odds are it will look very unnatural. In other words, it’s best to error on the shorter side.
8. Q: How wide should the waterfall be?
A: Again, make sure your waterfall is to scale with your surroundings. Keep in mind that the wider the waterfall is, the more water you are going to need to pump over it.
9. Q: I hear that you can change the sound of your falls by changing the location of the rocks. Is that really true?
A: Yes it’s true. Every little change you make in your garden pond makes a difference somewhere. If you change the rocks in your falls it will affect the sound.
10. Q. How do you hide the biological filter and the skimmer?
A. You dig a hole alongside your garden pond that will house the skimmer and pump, while the waterfalls is camouflaged in the berm that envelops the falls filter. Hiding the skimmer and falls is not an issue for the modern garden pond builder.
A: As a general rule, you should locate your pond as close to your viewing area as you can get. Typically, ponds are situated in the yard so you can enjoy the pond from both inside and outside. Right off of your deck or patio is ideal.
2. Q: Where should I avoid locating my garden pond?
A: The last place your pond should go is in the back corner of your lot. It will be much easier to enjoy if you don’t have to walk all the way across your yard to see it, listen to it, and to feed your finely finned friends.
3. Q: Can I excavate deeper than two feet with my garden pond?
A: Yes, but why would you want to? There is very little difference in oxygen levels at 3’ deep. If you go deeper, however, then you’ll need supplemental filtration. Then you’re looking at more cost for liner, underlayment, rocks and labor, etc. If you go deeper, you could also risk being in conflict with local BOCA codes. Conflicts can usually be avoided by sticking with a 24-inch deep pond.
4. Q: What type of rocks can I use in my garden pond?
A: Usually the only rock that has been known to cause problems is limestone. We suggest that you avoid limestone and use a rock that is native (indigenous) or natural to the local environment. Also, if you use rock that you’re familiar with, your building technique will become increasingly efficient.
5. Q: Are rocks and gravel absolutely necessary in my garden pond?
Te be honest there is a whole segment of the water gardening industry (those who show koi) who are absolutely opposed to rocks and gravel in the pond. But for most water garden enthusiasts who are just looking to relax in the midst of Mother Nature, having rocks and gravel duplicates what the fish are used to in their natural environment.
6. Q: Will my pond attract frogs, birds, and dragonflies?
A: If you build it right …they will come. And all three are signs of a healthy and naturally balanced aquatic ecosystem/water garden/garden pond.
7. Q: How high should the waterfall be?
A: You always want to keep your waterfall to scale with the grade. For example, you should probably avoid building a 5’ high waterfall in a flat backyard because, odds are it will look very unnatural. In other words, it’s best to error on the shorter side.
8. Q: How wide should the waterfall be?
A: Again, make sure your waterfall is to scale with your surroundings. Keep in mind that the wider the waterfall is, the more water you are going to need to pump over it.
9. Q: I hear that you can change the sound of your falls by changing the location of the rocks. Is that really true?
A: Yes it’s true. Every little change you make in your garden pond makes a difference somewhere. If you change the rocks in your falls it will affect the sound.
10. Q. How do you hide the biological filter and the skimmer?
A. You dig a hole alongside your garden pond that will house the skimmer and pump, while the waterfalls is camouflaged in the berm that envelops the falls filter. Hiding the skimmer and falls is not an issue for the modern garden pond builder.
Thursday, November 29, 2007
The Top 6 Algae FAQ’s, and Answers to Them
1. Q: What is string algae?
A: It’s a natural plant that feeds off of ammonia and excess nutrient loads in water.
2. Q: How do you get rid of string algae?
A: By cultivating a balanced ecosystem you can control algae, but you won’t ever eliminate it. That’s right, you’ll never have an algae-free pond, but if you have a good circulation/filtration system, a sufficient amount of aquatic plants to compete for nutrition and sunlight with the algae, and plenty of aerobic bacteria to transform debris into plant nutrition, you’ll have crystal clear water courtesy of Mother Nature.
3. Q: Should my pond to be totally algae-free?
A: Algae is part of Nature and you should expect it to be a guest in your garden pond, to a certain degree. What you don’t want is for algae to become emboldened and to go for a hostile takeover of your garden pond. And that possibility is balanced by forcing the algae to compete for nutrition with lots of other plants that you find pleasing and desirable. But a totally algae-covered pond should definitely not be your goal.
4. Q: Should I add string algae prevention products regularly to keep my pond clean?
A: This one’s up to you. Adding such products on a consistent basis will keep your string algae down, but it will also add to the water hardness and could possibly cause scale buildup. Overall, it should be unnecessary to add anything on a regular basis if you’ve created a healthy ecosystem. If for some reason you have a real problem pond, you may want to consider using a good strong brand of flocculent.
5. Q: I used an algaecide, and one day later my fish were dead. What should I do?
A: The use of any algaecide can be dangerous to the aquatic life in the pond. It’s not so much the actual product that’s harmful, but the decaying algae. As algae dies, it sinks to the bottom of the pond where it begins a biodegrading process, which requires lots of oxygen. In severe cases, this may starve the other living organisms of needed oxygen.
6. What about UV sterilizers in the pond? I’m told these clear up problem ponds.
A: As of the fall of 2007 an alternative to UV sterilizers were introduced to the market. Known as Magic Mats, they’re basically conventional filter mats that have been specially treated with a substance that produces the same result as a UV sterilizer, but they’re vastly simpler, vastly more eco-friendly, and vastly easier on your pocket book. They also carry a three year warrantee, can be easily placed into your skimmer box, and all the water that passes through them gets treated and they work wonders in problematic garden ponds.
A: It’s a natural plant that feeds off of ammonia and excess nutrient loads in water.
2. Q: How do you get rid of string algae?
A: By cultivating a balanced ecosystem you can control algae, but you won’t ever eliminate it. That’s right, you’ll never have an algae-free pond, but if you have a good circulation/filtration system, a sufficient amount of aquatic plants to compete for nutrition and sunlight with the algae, and plenty of aerobic bacteria to transform debris into plant nutrition, you’ll have crystal clear water courtesy of Mother Nature.
3. Q: Should my pond to be totally algae-free?
A: Algae is part of Nature and you should expect it to be a guest in your garden pond, to a certain degree. What you don’t want is for algae to become emboldened and to go for a hostile takeover of your garden pond. And that possibility is balanced by forcing the algae to compete for nutrition with lots of other plants that you find pleasing and desirable. But a totally algae-covered pond should definitely not be your goal.
4. Q: Should I add string algae prevention products regularly to keep my pond clean?
A: This one’s up to you. Adding such products on a consistent basis will keep your string algae down, but it will also add to the water hardness and could possibly cause scale buildup. Overall, it should be unnecessary to add anything on a regular basis if you’ve created a healthy ecosystem. If for some reason you have a real problem pond, you may want to consider using a good strong brand of flocculent.
5. Q: I used an algaecide, and one day later my fish were dead. What should I do?
A: The use of any algaecide can be dangerous to the aquatic life in the pond. It’s not so much the actual product that’s harmful, but the decaying algae. As algae dies, it sinks to the bottom of the pond where it begins a biodegrading process, which requires lots of oxygen. In severe cases, this may starve the other living organisms of needed oxygen.
6. What about UV sterilizers in the pond? I’m told these clear up problem ponds.
A: As of the fall of 2007 an alternative to UV sterilizers were introduced to the market. Known as Magic Mats, they’re basically conventional filter mats that have been specially treated with a substance that produces the same result as a UV sterilizer, but they’re vastly simpler, vastly more eco-friendly, and vastly easier on your pocket book. They also carry a three year warrantee, can be easily placed into your skimmer box, and all the water that passes through them gets treated and they work wonders in problematic garden ponds.
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